Dining out in Milan, Italy

I enjoyed three seafood dinners during my stay in Milan, the first at a restaurant called Noblesse Oblige, above left. 

I was told Italians eat dinner as late as 10. I saw them gathered at cafes in the early evenings, enjoying wine or another drink and a snack. It was convivial, but I was traveling by myself and couldn't hold out.

Noblesse Oblige was recommended by an employee at my hotel in Piazza Lima, and I walked over. When I arrived shortly before 7, I was told I had to wait 10 to 15 minutes until the restaurant opened. When I was shown inside, I was the only diner and had to wait some more for a waiter to come on duty, bring me the menu and take my order.

This was my first dinner in Italy and one of the most expensive -- two courses cost more than $45 at an exchange rate of $1 for 78 euro cents. There was no price-fixed tourist menu, and I paid extra for mineral water and bread.


I chose from a menu of specials headed "Return from the market." I ordered "surf fish" with porcini mushrooms and roast potatoes (25 euros), followed by a simple mixed salad (5.50 euros). I was surprised that the "surf fish" was, in fact, fresh swordfish, which I rarely order. (Noblesse Oblige, Via Gaffurio, 1, Milan, Italy; 02-669-2773.)


I did much better the next two nights, where I had dinner at Ristorante La Buca, another seafood place, this one a few blocks from the massive Central Station, the city's major railroad hub.


The first night, I was offered an 18-euro menu that included water, wine and bread. As at all restaurants in Italy, service (the tip) was included, but I left another 2.50 euros for the waitress.


I started with a creamy risotto and porcini mushrooms, which were in season. Each kernel of rice was firm but yielding, unlike any risotto I've had. My entree was a grilled salmon steak served with salad, which I dressed myself with extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar brought to my table. It was a terrific dinner for about $26.


I went back the next night to order a plate of spaghetti with seafood I saw another patron demolish the night before, but not the big bowl of ice cream he ended his meal with. The mixed seafood was pristine and the fresh tomato sauce coated every strand of pasta without being in the least bit soupy.


I started the meal with selections from a buffet of seafood and vegetable appetizers. The pasta was 10 euros, the appetizers were 8 euros, so I spent about $25 for this satisfying and delicious dinner. La Buca also has a fixed-price vegetarian menu and special menus for several days of the week. (Ristorante La Buca, Via Napo Torriani, 28, Milan, Italy; 02-669-3774.)

Hold the swordfish, please

Image via Wikipedia

In Friday's restaurant review, Elisa Ung of The Record says the owner knows what will sell to his "primarily senior citizen clientele ... fish selections like swordfish and grouper, not something like wahoo."

Wahoo? I had never heard of it and had never seen it listed on a North Jersey menu, so I did some internet research. I learned it is an "eco-sustainable alternative to swordfish," which is a fish so high in mercury that young women and children are warned not to consume it. I'm a senior and would order wahoo every time to avoid  mercury and certainly would patronize a restaurant that served it over one that served swordfish. Learn more about wahoo at this Web site:

www.tobagowild.com

Returning to the restaurant's name, Ung reports it is named for the owner's daughter, Davia, and son John wanted "no part of the name." Imagine if he did. It could be called Davohn, Daviohn, Javia, Javian, Johnia, Jia, Davia-John or John-Davia. 

Good deal may not be good for you

The latest sales circular from Fairway Market in Paramus, in today's newspaper, prominently displays "fresh-cut, local" swordfish steaks for $6.99 a pound, a savings of $6 a pound.

Unfortunately, swordfish is one of five species with the most mercury, according to the June 2009 Consumer Reports On Health newsletter, which recommends that pregnant women and children should not consume it. The rest of us "can probably consume very occasionally."

Consumer Reports bases its conclusions on data from the Environmental Protection Agency and the Food and Drug Administration. The other four species with the highest level of mercury are king mackerel, shark, tilefish and fresh tuna.