405 years ago, meals in New York City were both simpler and smaller

The highlight of Ship to Shore -- part of Sustainable Seafood Week NYC -- was this Ceviche of Golden Tile Fish, which is long-line caught by New Jersey fishing boats. Village Fishmongers, the supplier, says Golden Tile Fish has little or no mercury.

Freshly shucked oysters and clams also were on the menu, which was inspired by what Manhattan's earliest residents might have been eating in 1609, when Henry Hudson discovered the river that now separates New York and New Jersey.

By VICTOR E. SASSON
EDITOR

I've been visiting Manhattan for many decades, but got a fresh perspective on Saturday during a three-hour cruise up and down the East River and into Long Island Sound.

The meal served on board was simple and "local," from within 150 miles of New York City:

Fresh oysters and clams on the half shell, fresh tile fish; artisan bread, butter, nuts and dried fruit, all washed down with a little beer and white wine.

The main sponsor was the American Littoral Society, a shore-conservation and advocacy group based in New Jersey.

Perhaps to emphasize that New Yorkers ate simpler food and smaller portions in the early 1600s, the sponsors ran out of shellfish, ceviche, white wine and nuts.

We filled our plates with briny oysters.

Oysters from Fishers Island, which is at the eastern end of Long Island Sound, were among those served, above and below.

Artisan bread came from Orwasher's Retail Bakery in the Bronx. I found myself eating a lot of bread crusts when the shellfish, ceviche, nuts and wine ran out.

From the river, everything looks different and familiar landmarks suddenly become puzzles. Here is the mighty RFK Bridge, which connects the city to its two major airports.

A NY Waterway ferry in the East River.

The Queensboro Bridge and one of the towers for the cable car linking Manhattan to Roosevelt Island.

Here is one of my hands of bridge.

The Roosevelt Island Lighthouse (and I didn't even know it had one).

Other things we saw

The Upper East Side of Manhattan includes the park-like setting of Gracie Mansion, where the city's mayor traditionally lives; the United Nations and some of the most expensive high-rises in Manhattan.

We also got a good look at Rikers, the island filled with jailbirds, and other East River islands now inhabited mostly by the feathered variety, including cormorants, egrets and gulls.

New York City's islands were once the home to hundreds of thousands of acres of natural oyster beds.

Today, you'll probably find that most oysters gather under the vaulted ceiling of the Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant on East 42nd Street.

On the way home from the shore, stop at The Fishery in South Amboy

Fort Hancock is part of the Sandy Hook National Recreation Area on the New Jersey Shore.

Editor's note: In 2016, The Fishery in South Amboy was no longer in business.

By VICTOR E. SASSON
EDITOR


We drove down to Sandy Hook on Saturday for an open house at American Littoral Society headquarters and stopped on the way home for an early dinner at The Fishery in South Amboy (though I've always thought it was in neighboring Sayreville).


The squat building housing a fish market and restaurant on Route 35 has only 22 seats amid a simple decor of white tile and oversize fishing lures, but there's table service and a full menu of fresh and frozen seafood, including one-pound Brazilian lobster tails and colossal shrimp. 

Most of the interior is taken up by fish cases and the open kitchen.

Me, my wife and our son started with one dozen, steamed Little Neck clams ($9.95) in a broth with chopped tomato and parsley that I sopped up with garlic bread and scooped up with empty shells. 

Then, we each tried a different soup: lobster bisque, Maine lobster and corn chowder and Maryland crab and corn chowder ($3.50 or $3.95 for a cup). All were terrific.

Mateo, the Greek chef who bought The Fishery from the original owner about a year ago, buys his fish at the relocated Fulton Fish Market in the Bronx. He said so many different items are coming in now, after a lackluster winter, he feels as excited as a little boy shopping there.

But he excels in the simple grilling of fresh fish, and does less well when he tries something like the monkfish scampi with linguine I ordered off the specials blackboard ($14.95). 

My wife had some of my fresh fish and pasta -- which needed seasoning -- and also shared my son's selection, a platter of beautifully fried red snapper with Buffalo fries -- spicy potatoes under a blanket of mozzarella cheese (also $14.95).  

We enjoyed a side order of simply sauteed fresh spinach ($3.95), but wish the portion was larger.

As we were leaving, I noticed a whole red snapper nestled in ice I missed on the way in. That would have been terrific grilled with a Greek-style oil, lemon and oregano sauce on the side -- as we've had whole fish there before. 

I also wished I had room for the baklava or rice pudding.


One change we noticed on this visit was a printed menu with the South Amboy address, rather than  the familiar Sayreville, which separated from the former many years ago. Sayreville and the Raritan River are considered the start of the Jersey shore by many.


At the American Littoral Society open house in Fort Hancock, I got my first taste this year of fresh clams, but the man shucking these sweet mollusks said they were from Chesapeake Bay, not New Jersey. They were no less delicious.


The Fishery, 1812 Route 35 north and Midland Avenue, South Amboy, N.J.; 732-721-9100; open seven days.  

You may be able to bring your own wine. Please call ahead.

Donate a recipe for a good cause

The American Littoral Society -- the folks who protect the shore -- is trying to raise funds by soliciting recipes for a cookbook. Proceeds from sale of the book also will go to a nearby child-care center. Find details at the society's Web site:

Cookin' for the Coast

I'm a member, and look forward to Members' Day, when you can explore the national park at Sandy Hook and eat your fill of freshly shucked clams washed down with beer.