'Fine Italian Cuisine' is no idle boast

Mediterranean colors brighten the interior of BV Tuscany Restaurant in Teaneck.

As we were leaving BV Tuscany with leftover penne and lobster on Saturday night, we looked back at the words on the Teaneck restaurant's red awnings.

"FINE ITALIAN CUISINE."

That says it nicely, and in this case, the food and service lived up to the boast.

In fact, this was the best Italian meal I have had in a North Jersey restaurant in more years than I care to remember.

BV Tuscany, which opened in 2009, reminds me of the restaurants in Milan, Venice and on Lake Maggiore that I enjoyed during a 10-day visit to Italy in 2010.

My wife's salad of Baby Arugula, Poached Pear and Mango was a special.

My Tre Colore Caterina Salad included endive and shaved Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.

We started with two salads, and I was sorry I didn't follow my wife's example and order the delicious Baby Arugula with Poached Pear and Mango in a mango dressing from the list of specials recited by the waiter ($8.95).

My Tre Colore Caterina from the menu was excellent ($7.95), but unfortunately, both salads used pale, thin, cold tomato slices that lost whatever flavor they might have had in the refrigerator.

Our entrees were Lobster Fra Diavolo ($28.95) and Atlantic Sea Bass with Spinach ($23.95). Neither dish is made with butter.

The pound-and-a-half Maine lobster was cooked in the dining room, below, after a server brought the pan over to our table and showed us the crustacean.

The lobster claws and tail were unusually tender.

The spicy preparation of lobster is usually made with linguine, but I asked for whole-wheat pasta and was told only penne was available.

My wife and I shared that dish and a second entree of sea bass fillets served over a bed of sauteed spinach.

We couldn't finish the food, and took home the penne, which I had for breakfast this morning.

A few other minor complaints:

A fine-dining restaurant should have a larger selection of whole-wheat pasta. 

The sea bass was wonderful, but a wedge of lemon on the plate would have made it perfect.

BV Tuscany has a large staff for a small restaurant, but the solicitous waiter who recited the specials spoke so quickly and in such a hushed tone my wife didn't understand a word he said.

We did like the homemade breadsticks and olives we got after we placed our order.

Two small sea-bass fillets were stacked on a bed of fresh spinach.

Our bill totaled $74.69 with tax but not tip. I used a $50 Living Social voucher that cost me $25.

So, I paid $24.68 with tax and left a $11 tip, for a total of $35.68. With the $25 I paid for the voucher, the meal cost us $60.68.

As we left, I thanked the staff, and promised to return.

Each table at BV Tuscany holds a bottle of wine.

BV Tuscany Restaurant, 368 Cedar Lane, Teaneck; 201-287-0404. Dinner only. Free street parking.

Web site: Fine Tuscan Cuisine